
Last night I had one of the best meals I have had in recent months. And I eat out quite a lot.
This was at Barlata Comida, a Catalan tapas bar on a fashionable area of Telegraph Avenue. The food was uniformly excellent. The three gazpachos come in tall glasses, each one very different to the next. Actually there is a salmorejo of garlic and bread, a white ajoblanco made with almonds and garlic, and a traditional thick gazpacho of vegetables in a tomato base. Each was delicious.
The fish was fresh — salmon, sardines, and anchovies. The Barandada made with salt cod and mashed potatoes and lots of garlic was totally satisfying. And the perfectly cubed mountain of fried potatoes with a dab of allioli and spicy tomato were a must have.
At the end of the meal, our party of four shared a fideua cooked in squid ink with monkfish, squid, and shrimp, also topped with allioli. A delicious twist on the traditional paella.
An amazingly good feast. Each dish was completely different in taste, texture, and color, and they arrived in a fairly steady stream that kept us eating and still left enough room for talk and sipping wine.
In all we had about eight plates and a couple of desserts, and we were more than full, and very satisfied.
The menu is extensive (about 50 items), and there are additional daily specials. Tapas and latas range from $4–$10, and the large plates are from $13-$14.
The wine list is also extensive. We drank a bottle of Can Blau Monstant that was excellent, if a little costly.
The waitress was friendly, well informed and was very liberal with the wine samples before we settled on the Can Blau. The wine list is long with many Spanish wines, mostly red. There are a couple of sparkling wines, a few sherries, and a wide selection of beer, on tap and in bottles. The wine prices range from $20–$135, and the beers are $4–7. Most wines are also available by the glass.
The atmosphere was very warm and friendly, although noisy. As there are no reservations, go a little late, they stay open until 11, and miss the 40-minute wait at 7 p.m.
I can’t wait to return and try more of their delicious small plates.
Barlata Comida 4901 Telegraph Avenue, Oakland (510) 450 0678. Open seven days 5–11 p.m. No reservations.
Food, Telegraph Avenue, restaurants
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